My Trip to Salisbury, Rhodesia - 1978
By Mike McCaffrey
I’m Mike McCaffrey. I was a Communications Officer (later redesignated as an Information Management Officer) in the Foreign Service, now retired. Our family had the pleasure of serving at our American embassies around the world. This little tale stems from our assignment to the American Embassy in Bonn, Germany, 1976-1978.
A requirement came down that we were to supply such a Communications Officer to cover the elections at the time in Salisbury, Rhodesia (now named Harare, Zimbabwe). The elections pitted the White ruling party against the Black parties seeking to overthrow the yoke of Apartheid which they had been living under.
The odd mechanics leading to the establishment of the U.S. LIAISON OFFICE, Salisbury, Rhodesia, owed its physical presence to a U.S. businessman who owned a large house there. He, according to the story given me, leased his large house to the U.S. Government for the princely sum of U.S. $ 1 per year (!) and went to live in Athens. Four Americans were more/less “permanently” based there, and I was the guy on TDY (Temporary Duty).
I, with plane tickets in hand, departed Bonn on a very cold day in Winter 1977. I flew to an equally cold Zurich, Switzerland, to transfer to a direct flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. I left wearing a warm jacket, which I ditched upon being on the ground in “Joburg,” which was very hot. I donned a Hawaiian shirt, wishing to be comfortable. I then caught another flight that went a little farther north into Rhodesia. We all knew there was a war going on in Rhodesia at the time between the White regime under Ian Smith and the Black parties wanting to throw off the yoke of Apartheid.
My arrival at Salisbury Airport. Note the military types walking around; there was a war on. I was just standing there, hoping someone would be there to meet me. Then I saw this guy in that uniform, holding a placard with my name on it. “Yeah, that’s me,” I said. He told me to follow him; the car is waiting outside. I emerged to see a block-long shiny black Cadillac stretch limo.
“Are you sure this is for me?” I asked. “Yes! Yes! For Mr. McCaffrey!” He put the suitcase in the trunk and asked me to get in the back seat. The compartment was CAVERNOUS! Then, looking through the small window from his driver’s seat, he said: “There is a refrigerator unit in the door under your armrest; please have a cold drink.” I lifted the armrest and extracted an ice-cold beer. Driving along, I thought to myself: “Man, these people sure know how to live!”
We drove to a place with a closed gate, behind which was a palatial estate down a long driveway. It sort of reminded me of TARA, the Antebellum estate in GONE WITH THE WIND. At the gate were two British Marines. One came up to my window, rendered a very impressive typical British military salute, and said: “Sir, may I see your passport, Sir?" After inspecting my passport, the Marine rendered another snappy salute and told his partner to open the gate. We proceeded down that long driveway to the mansion. The driver got out and gave me my suitcase. I walked into the house, per the doorman’s instructions. I emerged into a very large room. I immediately noticed the many chandeliers … and very many people … the men in tuxedos, the ladies in resplendent gowns. Everyone had a glass of something in their hands … and ALL were STARING at me: Hawaiian shirt, dark aviator sunglasses, mustache. Oh – oh! What was wrong with that picture?
A quite large guy came from within the midst, laughing. “You must be Mike McCaffrey,” he said. “You came to the wrong place, Mike!” (No kidding!). “How did you get here?” I pointed to the stretch Caddy out front, and Jeff laughed uproariously! “My goodness, Mike, you’ve created quite an incident! That car was meant to pick up our incoming Congressional Delegation (CODEL, in State Department speak). They’re out there on the hot tarmac at the airport wondering where in the heck their ride is!”
The Caddy was sent back out to the airport to pick up the CODEL (a bus was out there for the staff members). I, the guy in the Hawaiian shirt, was packed off in a rickety local taxi, no extended leg room in the back seat, no refrigerated bar under the ripped armrest, on the way to the townhouse where I’d be staying for the duration of my trip. I became a mini legend …. J
Jeff Davidow, the U.S. Liaison Officer in charge of our little mission in Salisbury, later filled many Ambassadorial posts. I returned to Bonn at the completion of this temporary duty. The story of my absconding with the CODEL transportation preceded me; laughs all around. My family and I went on to many more assignments over the course of my career before I retired. Lots more adventures while adhering to that delightful British motto: KEEPING A STIFF UPPER LIP.
Au revoir … Sayonara … Zai Jian …